Dispatch From Iraq

I planned to post excerpts out of this email from our good friend who is working as a JAG attorney in Iraq, but really - you should read the whole thing. Surreal.

Star Date: 4 June 2005

Hello All:

I apologize for the delay in getting out this latest installment of pseudo-adventures here in Shangri-La. Events over the last month have basically provided me with exactly enough free time to sleep and eat. And if I correctly remember 6th grade science class, that’s at least 2 of the 3 basic necessities.

Above all, I’ve been on the road/air some of late – and when not, basically living at the CCCI courthouse. In the month of May alone, we prosecuted more cases than ever before since the Court’s creation. So, “Semper Hooah” to that.

That said, traveling – or as I like to call it “convoy/helo-hitchhiking” in this grand country is a rather unique experience. In all, there are two principles one should operate under: (1) pack light and live out what you carry & (2) utilize your charm, wit, and common-sense - otherwise you’ll be sitting around for hours. It works well, and allows one to by-pass the ‘group-think’ mentality of actually expecting military methods of transportation to: a) arrive on time; and b) actually take you where you need to go. And well, it’s fun.

As part of the most recent mini ‘Tour De Sand’ (and unfortunately, there will be no merchandise or T-shirts – at least not just yet), I was able to spend some quality time at the world famous 4-star “Abu Ghraib Prison.” Unfortunately, Paris Hilton was nowhere to be seen.

Nonetheless, the main thrust of the journey was to give a briefing to our folks, tie up some structural issues, and pursue a confession regarding a murder case I currently have. Note: it's a tough case – great circumstantial evidence, but the hard evidence just isn't there - which is essential within the Iraqi justice system. So, I've been jumping thru hoops right and left to piece it all together - and running each twist and turn past the Court. And because the events occurred in late 04’ – finding the right people, with the right information has been a real challenge. It’s tentatively scheduled to go next week – so, we shall see. I’m optimistic at best – we’re headed into some unventured evidentiary territory. And well, like with any other case –the unfamiliar is never the most ideal.

Moreover communicating with the families of the dead Marines back in the U.S. has been another experience – and at times pretty tough - especially the phone calls. But by and large, it has worked out pretty well. They've been incredibly supportive - especially getting us impact/sentencing evidence if/when we get that far. The families were also shocked that we were prosecuting those responsible – and I found this previous lack of communication disheartening. So in many ways, working this case has been a real eye-opener on many fronts. Tough to explain, it just has.

Overall, the trip to Abu Ghraib – I went with the other Navy JAG in our office (great guy) - was time well spent. And well, AG was unique to see – Saddam’s torture chamber and all. Not shocking, Abu Ghraib is an absolute hole in the middle of nowhere. And in many ways, it proved reminiscent of a battered, dusty shanty town. While the aesthetics were not surprising, it was interesting to experience and nice to see some familiar faces.

A Navy JAG friend of mine is stationed there now. On a daily basis, they review case files – and recommend how a case should be dealt with - as detainees come in the door. In a nutshell, case files either will go to us at the CCCI or to administrative review procedure (required under U.N. Resolution 1546). It’s brutal work – at a brutal place. And it’s impossible to have nothing but profound respect for those down there – paralegals, attorneys, and everyone else.

Also, how our folks have made the most of the situation was also noteworthy. Living quarters exist in run-down concrete buildings – but, most have transformed their spaces in the most hospitable ways. For entertainment, there is now an outdoor boxing ring – for G.I. v. G.I. “Friday Night Fights.” Note: supposedly on ‘opening night’ a scantily clad “Card Girl” was parading around in-between rounds. And from what I can gather – it really wasn’t a sight to see – which based on my experience – wasn’t at all shocking. Still, there is also a fairly nice gym, outside basketball court, and even make-shift movie theatre and recreation center (with a 1940’s era foosball table no less – god bless duct tape). So, they make the best of the situation.

And also not shocking, AG possesses its own peculiar odor – which I don’t believe Faberge’ will be licensing anytime soon. Talking to those stationed there – there are 3 competing theories: (1) AG was supposedly built on an old garbage dump - thus: trash + scorching hot temp = putrid smell; (2) the dead bodies from all of Saddam’s torture victims were buried there - thus: decaying bodies + scorching hot temps = putrid smell; or (3) thousands of detainees + scorching hot temperatures = putrid odor.

After visiting the detainee in-processing center, I would have to think the odor has strong origins in Theory #3. The in-processing center was equally unique. Prior to receiving an assigned number and designated living section at AG, the detainees are kept in quasi-holding pens – where they live, sleep, eat, and pray. Each are also provided a copy of the Koran, a prayer rug, and a yellow jump suit.

The structure itself more qualifies as an open-air bazaar. The thin plastic sun roof is replete with holes – and long newly laid concrete runway flows thru the center of the building. The new runway was the subject of much consternation of those stationed there – and rightly so – given roofing needs and because the old runway didn’t have holes or cracks worthy of immediate repair. Such is the genius of sub-contracting military construction needs to KBR et. al. Heaven forbid those on the ground are consulted on their actual needs – and how new construction money can/should be best spent.

Upon entering the in-processing facility, there were probably 100 detainees to my immediate left engaged in a daily Muslim prayer - surreal to say the least. Even more interesting, was to see how our soldiers related to the detainees. Without question, it was completely professional - if not at times heartening. Watching the detainees attempt to coyly barter for short-cuts in various lines to eat or receive medical checkups – and the respectful indulging our soldiers gave them - was a sight-to-see. More than anything, it seemed to reflect a mutual acknowledgement of the environment – including a mutual understanding of their relationship. It was a pleasant surprise.

Anyhow, the typical day at Abu Ghraib revolves around the near daily mortar attacks –that typically occur between 5pm-9pm. Luckily, we didn’t have any during my visit – we just listened to flare rockets go off all night long. Nonetheless, from 5pm-9pm, no one really goes outside unless absolutely required. Note: the day prior to my arrival, a soldier - merely exercising outside - lost his leg when an attack suddenly began. Moreover, mortar holes also still existed where the helicopter pads had been attacked a few days prior – when one of the generals had visited. Not surprising, it all kept one wide-awake.

Above all, the consistency of the mortar attacks – and the randomness by which they strike - seem to weigh heavy on everyone. The large scale assault that occurred on April 2 – which is commonly referred to as a day – not an event – does the same. Late one night, we sat around over a couple non-alcoholic beers (which spawned my new favorite catch phrase –“You’re not almost having fun, if you’re not almost drinking beer….”) and listened to those who went thru it talk about what happened. Tough to explain – so, I won’t.

In all, it was most interesting to witness the small routines that have been devised to cope with daily life at AG. Usually, one person from each office/location is designated to run and grab box dinners from the chow hall – in order to minimize the number of people outside. And if you have to use the restroom, you just wait it out. Moreover, as various explosions occur, someone will reflexively - as almost on cue - state “nah, must be outgoing….” As everyone listens for what might come next, no one says another word. Not surprising, it’s the same habitual response, I have personally witnessed almost everywhere I’ve gone over here.

Upon our departure, we hitched a ride back up with an early morning MP Convoy that takes the detainees back and forth up to the CCCI. Great folks – and they do amazing job under some of the country’s dangerous conditions. As such, I had the grand pleasure of traversing along the “Iraq’s Two Most Perilous Roads.” Enter “scary organ” music….

In all, it was business as usual – aside from getting stalled for 20 minutes after a truck jack-knifed on a one-lane dirt road we were moving through. If anything – after being here a few months - it merely helped get the early morning blood moving. Along the way, it also proved interesting to see how the terrain and landscape altered. Rolling along various highways and side roads – shepherds, farmers, sheep, cows, and various mud houses interspersed with open desert, farm land, and dense palm trees and marsh. In essence - to quote track 5 on the new Ryan Adams record- “beautiful sorta….beautiful sorta….but not.”

Moreover, the poverty in which most Iraqis live was again obvious – and hinted at how far we have to go in realizing the lofty goals that have been set for transforming this country. From what I witnessed and people I’ve spoke to – little progress seems to have been made – especially in the countryside. And in many ways, one almost gets the feeling that most Iraqis are just waiting us out – angling and preparing to endure whatever comes next. Their history – especially their psychological distrust of paternal political and economic power - seems to point in this unfortunate direction. One can only hope we provide the exception.

Still, I often fear we have underestimated the enormity of the task at hand - especially in terms of reversing generations of social and psychological damage inflicted by the anti-West political establishment. In many conversations, I’ve heard the same mantra repeated as to why the West still hasn’t fully grasped why Iraqis – and other Middle Eastern nations –have not fully embraced modernity. It also fully explains why any Iraq/WWII Reconstruction analogy falls flat. Most of all, anti-West political leaders - exploiting the Islamic faith - have utilized the extreme economic plight – and systematic denial of education - to maintain and enlarge their own power and wealth. In step, the poor are systemically blamed for their own – and their country’s – continuing struggles.

They are further beaten down into supporting the status quo so their leaders can continue ‘active opposition’ to Israel, Jews, and the West –and harbor a return to past glory and promised economic liberation. Most simply, they employ “anti-nationalism” – with a stroking of ethnic and tribal conflict as the final distraction. In essence, Iraqis and others have never been empowered to celebrate the uniqueness - and greatness - of the respective countries. Instead, they have been systematically bullied into feeling ashamed for contributing to its “decline.” This cycle has been perpetuated for generations – and in my opinion, this is our great challenge. And one we must meet - with a sustained and multi-faceted commitment - in order to succeed. Otherwise, this whole operation will be for not.

Moving along, things continue to be hectic here. Long, and longer days – and the trips to Court vary from the near routine – to a little more touch n’ go. Although the car bombing seemed to have quieted down, we had some mortar fire the last couple nights - such is the nature of the beast. And as for free time, someone actually was able to procure a bootleg copy of the new Star Wars movie here. In all honesty, this place is crawling with bootlegged bad American pop culture – for dirt cheap. Nonetheless, we gathered around and watched it – and well, my thoughts on the film are best summed up here :

http://www.newyorker.com/printables/critics/050523crci_cinema.

Darth Vader aside, there have been some other rather amusing Embassy-wide social developments of late. A few days back a directive came rolling down from the ‘Team Generale’ (ie. the generals) regarding "untold numerous reports" of various “military officers” imbibing to excess and carousing with countless “enlisted females.” Now, this lapse of decorum was also blamed on the various “evening parties" (usually thrown by KBR people - who like everyone else non-US military - drink like Norman vikings) at the Embassy pool. Now, I’ve never seen evidence of such poolside bacchanalian revelry – mainly b/c I work all the time. And quite frankly, I was a little upset I missed it - for sheer entertainment value alone.

Yet, the ‘buzz killing’ didn’t stop there – the directive also spoke of further "untold numerous reports" of military folks visiting the "Baghdad Country Club" in the Green Zone - and engaging in other untoward nefarious activity. Now, back in the day - I once had the distinct honor of visiting this establishment (now officially "off limits"). And in all actuality – it ranked right up there with a visit to the dentist.

In fact, I would think that if there was HELL ON EARTH – this place would be it - worse, than a Creed concert. Imagine a small 1-room "club," pounding techno music, a 95%-5% male/female ratio, and per military regulation, you can't wash down a beer to numb the pain. Moreover, one had to endure the social travesty of watching the magic 5% attract runway model-esque attention from the ‘Great Frustrated.’ Not even the therapeutic magic of foosball could take away from the misery of watching this desperate social ritual. Needlesstosay, I found it all rather worth a quick laugh - and shall not lose any sleep over my newfound inability to endure it again. So, hat-tip to Team Generale on this one – well done I must say and golf-claps all around....

Nonetheless, over the last few weeks or so, I have been able to do/see some things off the radar. I went with a few others from our office around Baghdad to help present gift packages and candy to needy/orphaned Iraqi children. An amazing/depressing/frustrating experience – and abject poverty up close and personal. A few weeks back I also managed to find my way into to a party thrown in honor of the Gurhkas here - they guard the Embassy palace. The Gurhkas are Nepalese super-commandos - who have a long, storied tradition as great warriors. They fought with the Allies (under British command) against the Japanese in WWII - and gained a legendary reputation among U.S. soldiers for being utterly ruthless (and effective). So, it’s only fitting that they wave people in at the checkpoints and gates.

To usher in their participation as part of the ‘Coalition of the Willing,’ the Gurhkas have been privately contracted to work here – for $1000/month – through the Global Risk Strategies Corporation. In yet another glorious example of global and racial economic disparity, the U.S. government also continues privately outsource Iraq security issues. But, the differences are striking.

The U.S. government predominately goes through the Blackwater Corporation. “Blackwater” employees make anywhere from $10,000-20,000/month – and are almost all former-U.S. military. So in strict financial terms, the U.S. government essentially provided their qualifications and job skills for free - but has now hired them back for many times their old salary– quite the bargain.

Many (but not all) seem to strive for the “Bar Bouncer/Jose Canseco-look” – but one cannot neglect to mention the ever-so-necessary long goatee, tattoos, and tight black (INSERT BAD HEAVY METAL BAND) t-shirt. In all, they tend to strike one as a collective assortment that would find deep meaning and purpose in the heroics of professional wrestling, Maxim Magazine, and Vin Diesel films. As such, this is why I like to refer to them as the “Fellowship of the Buckmaster.”

And above all, “Buckmaster” also seem strut around this place as if the Holy Father himself has anointed their very presence. And for this well-compensated attitude, they tend to be the subject of subtle resentment. If anything, their mere presence begs other questions – how can our government justify paying U.S. soldiers criminally low wages for routinely risking their lives – yet turn around and pay “Buckmaster” 5-10 times more to do the same – if not, less? While Americans all the same, are the lives of “Buckmaster” somehow more valuable than a PFC or NCO or officer? Do they sacrifice more? Many here find “Buckmaster” a near-insult to in those uniform – and on balance, I often find it difficult to disagree. Moreover, the inherent gray regarding “Buckmaster’s” ultimate accountability – is equally disconcerting. But, such is reality here. I’d write your local representative – maybe they can sort it out.

Anyhow - back from “Buckmaster” tangent - the Gurhka shindig proved much like going to a super-secret outdoor high school keg party. While outside the Embassy complex - but inside the Green Zone - and, one could say was even a little shady. A secret invitation was required - and clandestine entry points and armed guards highlighted one’s path into a tiki-torched field – and ultimately to an old drained concrete lake. In many ways, the randomness reminded me of the deleted USO scene from “Apocalypse Now” & the organ donor sequence from “Indiana Jones & the Temple of Doom.” Most interesting, many U.S. and foreign dignitaries were in attendance as well - which made it all the more surreal. Nonetheless, the party was a welcome reprieve – replete with speeches and skits about the Gurhkas - and great food. And above all, it was nice to get out and be a normal human being if even for a couple hours.

And although this latest dispatch is a long, I cannot leave you without a quick note regarding one of my new favorite individuals in our office. I shall call him the ‘Mighty M’ (MM). MM has essentially worked as a translator in our office since its inception in early 2004. In fact, he’s managed to self-incorporate and negotiate his own private contract with the U.S. government. And MM is quite proud of the landmark– and in fact, indulged me with a 20 minute conversation laced - with every legal study guide catch-phrase imaginable....Brilliant.

Now, how this contractual supernova was allowed to happen baffles the mind – but given the fluidity of operations here, it’s not too surprising. And in all honesty, MM’s experience alone is valuable. Yet, even more entertaining, this singular achievement seems to provide MM with undue bravado when interacting with the other translators – who either work thru the Titan Corporation or are Iraqi nationals. All of them are excellent – and invaluable resource on many levels.

Not to be deterred, MM’s steadfast incorporated bravado has also caused consternation as his office power and influence continues to ween – and his outbursts to Iraqi court staff continue to haunt him. Note: MM also labors under the delusion that the world is out to get him – taking “his stapler,” “his chair,” “his pens” etc....No, I'm not joking.

Egyptian-born, standing at 5’4’ - and in his late 40s - MM supposedly lived in swingin' London for years and but now, currently resides in California. Yet, MM somehow wields this peculiar Anglo-Franco-German accent with his English – and usually, everything is pre-pronounced like the following: “z’u know, z’i need z’to meet with z’a judgez tozay…..” If you’ve ever seen Christopher Walken’s character on the SNL skit - “The Continental” – and you’re about there.

In addition to being a bonafide expert on really - all matters - MM is an Anglophile of the highest order: from colonial imperialism, the Royal Family, and on down the line. However, it is important to note than when pressed, MM could not name the first two Oasis albums –and had never heard of the Gallagher brothers. Needlesstosay, I was personally offended.

Even better, if one is to believe MM – he is also a California-barred attorney. Schooled at the Northwestern California School of Law - http://www.nwculaw.edu – MM also has a long and distinguished track record of attempting to sue anyone and anything - which he will tell you about in great detail. Upon research, we found some of his more impressive work. I highly recommend the following gem:

http://caselaw.lp.findlaw.com/data2/circs/9th/0115387p.pdf

It’s a classic and in fact, deemed worthy of decision sans oral argument - and much to our chagrin - was even promptly denied certiorari by the U.S. Supreme Court....Heady stuff.

Anyhow, MM is also quite the experience at Court. Daily hearings usually entail some sort of struggle to get him to stop trying to be the “lawyer” in the room – and simply perform his role as a translator. He also likes to snap and shush the detainees when they’ll occasionally talk to themselves during the hearing – which they are not allowed to do. Oh yes, there’s nothing like watching the ‘Napoleon Complex’ in action.

Still, MM is game for a good time – mainly because he’s the center of attention. Last week, I accompanied MM on guitar - with an old Muddy Waters blues riff – while he performed Ice Cube’s 1993 hit “It Was a Good Day” as spoken word poetry to the entire office. Tony Clifton would've been proud. If anything, everyone about fell over laughing – and it made the day go by a little nicer. Note: we’re also working a screenplay (currently titled: “The MM Saga: Cash, Grass, or Ass…Nobody Rides for Free!”) loosely based on MM’s tenure here in the office –but with more pointless action and suspense (of course). We’ve decided that Al Pacino should be slated to play the lead – with understandably, Martin Scorcese directing. I think it has real potential – and spin-off TV show possibility.

Well, I must roll – thank you again for all of the emails and care packages. If I’m late in responding to any of your emails, it’s not because I don’t care to – I simply just don’t have the time. Such is life here.

Also, I’ll likely be incommunicado for a while. I'll be heading up to North for another "Tour De Sand" – Mosul, Ramadi, Fallujah & other locales - to visit the various units I work with out in the field. It’s essential – and can only help further improve coordination and relations. Given communication difficulties, most units really don’t have a concrete idea as to what we do here – and how we can make our cases stronger. So, the trip is much needed on many fronts – and 1-on-1 beats email and bad phone lines any day. I’m headed up with another Army JAG in our office – who’s a former NCO. Great guy and we see eye-to-eye on many things around here - so, should be one for the memoirs.

Keep on Rockin’ in the Free World,
-Sean Mc